Paintwork RenovationNow that the Astra was clean, I could see exactly what state the paintwork was in. Just as I thought it was covered in the usual chips, scratches and swirls.
The bodyshop were just going to blow into this wing, however, they noticed it had a number of chips so painted the whole thing. They admitted they couldn't finish as good as I could, so rather than get carried away themselves they left it to me to sort.
Although they made sure I had somthing to do. Mmmm, pig tails!
Before any work could be done I needed to get a good set of readings from the paint. Using a CM8828 I went around the car, breaking panels up into imaginary 6 inch squares, taking 5 or 6 readings in each and noting down the lowest number. Followed by some underbonnet readings where there is little if any clearcoat which gave me an idea of what I had to play with.
Seeing as time wasn't too much of an issue, being my own car not a customers or a works sales car, I could afford to work panel at a time. More often than not this meant a panel per day, usually a Sunday. On the days leading up to working on the car I built up paint in any stone chips using original Vauxhall touch up paint with smart repair touch in buds. Slowly building up the paint to form a small 'dome' above the surface.
Before working on each panel the first thing was to re-clay, just to make sure the area was totally clear of any surface contaminates. For this I used Sonus Green and Meguairs Last Touch as a lube.
Then removed anything in the area to be worked on that was 'easy' to remove and taped up everything else.
Badges. These all had to be removed. To do this, I firstly warmed them up using a hot air gun to soften the glue in the backing tape. Obviously making sure not to get the gun too close or hot enough to damage anything!
On this car I found the badges simply peeled off and luckily the vast majority of the tape came off with them. This was handy as it meant I only needed to wipe over the area with some Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover to remove the last of the tape.
Next up was to block back the touched in chips. To start with I used a 3M Finesse-it hand block, with 3M 268L Finesse-it 9 micron abrasive petals and Meguairs Last Touch as a lube. I only wanted to block the chips back by about 80% using this method (the remainder would be sorted during the next stage) and always sanded in the direction of airflow.
Then it was time to get serious and out came my latest toys! Mirka ROS325NV 77mm air palm sander, Mirka ROS625CV 150mm air Palm sander both with Interface pads and 2000 and 4000 grit Abralon discs in both 77mm and 150mm sizes.
To power the sanders I used my 2.5 hp 25L compressor. To be fair and as I've said before on other threads, this compressor did the job simply because I was sanding small areas at a time and not really any more than one panel per day. I wouldn't attempt to try and sand an entire car at once using this, it simply isn't man enough. Within a few seconds it cuts in and slowly looses the fight to supply enough wind to power the sanders.
Anyway, the night bore sanding I put the required pads in a bucket of water so that they were ready for use the following day. Adding a squirt of Meguairs #00 High Tech Wash to a bottle of water to use as a lubricant, I sprayed the area to be sanded. I soon found with this paint the 2k discs performed better without the interface pads (except on panels with many sharp creases Ie. wings, then I used them as a safety precaution)
Starting off with the 150mm sander to cover the big flat areas, working the sander pretty much in the same way as you would a PC/G220.
Then cut in the harder to reach areas with the 77mm sander
Whilst sanding I regularly stopped, dried the area with a Sunus Der Wonder polishing towel, inspected how things were going and checked the PTG readings.
Once the 2000 grit stage was complete, this is how the panels looked.
Then on with the 4000 grit using the same process, but, this time interface pads were used as you can see.
Leaving this as a finish. You can see the reflections are sharper giving an almost satin look.
Now it was time to bring out the Makita. Initially I wanted to use the Menzerna range and did for a couple of panels but they were playing up most of the time, so in the end I turned to another range of products that were new to me. The Meguairs #80 Speed Glaze and #83 Cleaner Polish.
Starting off by putting 3 pea size blobs of #83 onto a Meguairs polishing pad. Once the pad because loaded this was reduced to 2 blobs
The polishing procedure for using the #83 was roughly
* 600 rpm to spread
* 1200 rpm for a few passes
* 1600 rpm for as many passes as it took to break the polish down
* 1200 rpm to finish polishing
* 900 rpm to refine
On a few areas #83 didn't provide enough cut so I upped to a combo I've used many times before, which is a Farecla G3/G10 mix. I used this on a Meguairs compounding pad. Basically its 2 pea size blobs of G3 and 2 x G10.
The procedure for using the G3/G10 mix was to firstly spritz the pad with water then
* 600 rpm to spread (spritz again)
* 1200 rpm for a few passes (spritz again)
* 16/1700 rpm for as many passes as it too to break down the polish (sometimes spritzing during this process)
* 1200 rpm to finish polishing
This was then followed up with Megs# 83 as above. Both Farecla and #83 were buffed using a Z-ymol towel
I then gave the panel a good IPA wipe down, checked for anything obvious before giving it a quick coat of Jeffs Acrylic Prime just to add a little protection and left. I did this in case polish fall back occurred (which it did in places)
Seeing that no write up is complete with a 50:50 shot, here one I did for you on the drivers wing. Taken after sanding, and polish down to and including #83 stage.
Once I'ed been round the car I stopped working on the paintwork and turned my attention to the interior, details of which will come later.
On returning to the paintwork it was time to re correct any areas that had suffered polish fall back with the processes above before finishing with Meguairs #80. For #80 I used a Meguairs finishing pad and as usual 3 blobs on the pad reducing to two when loaded. The process for using this was
* 600 rpm to spread
* 1200 rpm for initial polish
* 1500 rpm for as long as it took to break down the polish
* 1200 rpm to finish polishing
* 7-800 rpm to refine
Once again I gave the panel a good IPA wipe down and then a thorough inspection
Once happy with the finish, it was time to Start the Zaino process. To start with the car received two initial layers of Zaino AIO. Why two? Simply to ensure I covered everything. This was applied using the red side of a German foam applicator and buffed with a Poorboys Ultimate Mega towel. I sometimes found AIO a PITA to remove, however, a little help from Zaino Z6 soon sorted this.
This was then followed up with 3 layers of ZFXed Zaino Z5 Pro, applied using the red side of a German applicator, left for a couple of hours to cure and buffed with a Poorboys Ultimate Mega towel. I gave the car a Z6 wipe down between each layer
The following weekend I gave the Astra 3 layers of ZFXed Zaino Z2 Pro applied and removed the same as Z5.
Finally The Astra was given a wipe down with Zaino Z8.
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Whilst working around the car I noticed there were still a number of imperfections in the front bumper. To correct these I decided it best to remove it, strip it down and detail it on the panel stand.
This was sanded back using the 77mm Mirka sander and 2 and 4k discs in the same way as the rest of the car. Then polished with the rotary using Ultimate 100mm spot pads. Starting off with the blue polishing pads and this time Menzerna IP3.01 which worked perfectly on the spot pads.
* 600 rpm to spread
* 1100 rpm for a few passes
* 14/1500 rpm to break down the polish
* 1200 rpm to finish polishing.
Because of the smaller pads, heat build up wasn't such and issue, but caution was paid! The bumper was put in the garage for a week or two to allow for any polish fall back. In that time I did the engine bay etc but again, more on that later.
Once checked and a couple of areas re polished, I finished with Menz PO85RD on a 100mm Ultimate finishing pad. The process here was
* 600 rpm to spread
* 1100 rpm to start polishing
* 1400 rpm to polish until product had broken down
* 1200 rpm to finish polishing
* 7/800 rpm to refine.
The area behind the bumper was cleaned with Meguairs APC then carefully rebuilt and put back on the car where it as Zaino'ed with the rest.
Whilst the grille was off I thought it would be the ideal time to polish the chrome part of that too. Firstly it was cleaned with Meguairs APC cut 4:1 using an old Microfiber and left to dry over night
The next day I taped it up and polished the chrome with a Lake Country polishing spot pad with Menzerna IP3.01 on the PC.
* Speed 1 to spread
* Speed 3 to start polishing
* Speed 5 to break the polish down
replaced the pad with a Ultimate glazing pad and with PO85RD on the PC
* Speed 1 to spread
* Speed 3 to start polishing
* Speed 5 to break the polish down
* Speed 2 to refine
It was then given a quick coat of Jeffs Acrylic prime until it got Zaino'ed back on the car.
I forgot to get any pics, but the chrome panel on the bootlid was polished in the same way as the above.
The rear bumper was then Removed.
This was taken away for a touch of smart repair. Unfortunately the lad who does our work suffered a bereavement in his family shortly after and wasn't able to touch it for longer than I could really be with out it for. So, back to the bodyshop and with hindsight this was perhaps the better option as its all been done properly.
When it returned a couple of days later it just required a bit of de-nibbing which I did in situ on the car as it wasn't quite as difficult a shape as the front bumper to polish, which incidentally was done in the same way as the front.
Once everything was complete and Zaino'ed, rather than put the shabby old plates back on, I replaced them with a new set, same number obviously! Likewise with the badges, those that were ok I stuck back on with Wurth 4mm badge tape, and those that were pitted I replaced with new.