como me vuela la cabeza este bichito... aunque con un 370 Z me conformaria, jaja
fuente: DW
The main body panels of the Nissan featured paint that was noticeably harder then the ultra soft bumpers. Meguiars M105 did not respond well on the paint, tending the cake and clump on the paint. Also, despite being harder then the bumpers, the paint did not favor wool pads for the re-leveling.
In general my process was similar to this for the main body: fenders, doors, roof and hood.
-Areas with deep etching and scratching where sanded with Meguiars’ Unigrit 2000/2500/3000 grits as well Micro Abrasives 4000 grit and 6000 grits
-Meguiars’ M095 on a Lake Country Orange Pad (7.5 inch or 4 inch) for 2 to 4 passes
Or
-3M Extra Cut on a Meguiars’ Red So1o Wool Pad on areas that where severally etched or previously sanded (this was followed by M95 on an Orange Pad)
-Menzerna PO83 on a Lake Country Green Eurofoam Pad for 1 to 3 passes until the paint was perfect after a Prep-Sol wipe down.
Because of time limitations, I did not have time to document the work as well as I would have liked. A lot of sanding, polishing, sanding, and more and more polishing…
The rear quarter panel before…
And after…
Here I am working with a four inch pad, under the rear spoiler.
PO83 and Green Eurofoam (combined with a lot of patience) did a great job restoring gloss and clarity after re-leveling the paint.
As I worked feverishly on the paint, never stopping (my goal was to finish re-leveling the paint and polishing with P083 before the day ended) I was lucking to have the help of Mark (moutee).
He was a great helping, polishing the water spots on all the glass with Zaino Z-12 and a Porter Cable.
Mark also polished the gray paint on the front as well as under the splitter with a Porter Cable and Menzerna PO106ff on a while Lake Country Pad.
The front bumper had the worst etching of all, with deep acid rain marks that penetrated deep into the top coat. The entire front bumper was sanded with 3200 grit pads from Micro Abrasives, followed by 4000 grit and 6000 grit. Even in this picture of the bumper, little dots of extremely deep etching remain (not to be confused by the waffle pattern from the orange peel). I should note that the paint was extremely soft on the front bumper as well, and compounding with a wool pad actually hazed the paint greater then the sand paper. However P083 quickly snapped the paint back shape.
By 7:30 PM the majority of the paint was re-leveled and polished. The GT-R looked noticeably better and darker (and the bumper was re-finished perfectly) even when still masked with tape.
Mark stuck around to help me wash the polishing dust (and the various abrasives it carried) off the car. As I finished polishing the paint, Mark attacked the wheels with a vengeance. Each wheel was sprayed with liberal amounts of PS21 Wheel Gel and agitated with a Swissvax Wheel Brush. The barrels where agitated with an EZ Detail Wheel Brush. Mark was very meticulous, like tdkenay himself was standing next to him, pointing out any spec of remaining brake dust.
The Gel was left to dwell while I polished and worked the paint towards perfection.
After an incredibly long day, the car was pulled outside and foamed with a high alkaline soap using a Gilmour Foam Gun.
The car was the rinsed with a 1500 Karcher using pure, de-ionized water to remove any polishing dust with out the fear of re-introducing any water spots.
Mark left for the day around 8:30 PM and I pulled the GT-R in to continue polishing.
-Menzerna PO106fa on a Lake Country White Pad over the entire car, 1 pass, worked long to burnish the paint
A picture of the car after 106fa, early the next morning… This is what it should have looked when it arrived at house 24 hours previous.
Finally the car was pulled back out and rewashed for a final time using the pressure washer and de-ionized water.
Picture taken at 2:30 AM Monday Morning, after the second rinsing…
After washing, I had noticed that wheels did not have there potential gloss. A little Menzerna PO85u and a green foam pad with a lot of hand greatly enhanced the gloss of the rims, removing all the contamination from the rims.
This was followed by a hand polished coat of Jeff Werkstatt Prime Strong, which was also worked into the glass by PC. After removal, both the glass and rims, and brake calipers received 3 coats of Rejex Sealant (8 hours apart). After removing the first coat of Rejex from the wheels and glass, I called it a night.